Balancing Corporate & Homesteading Lifestyles
Why Can’t I Get Hugs From Everyone?
Hello there, humans. It’s me, Cluck Kent, your friendly neighborhood roost reporter, perched on my favorite bale of straw. I’m watching visitors come and go from afar (with my super-vision, of course) and asking myself the burning question: “Why can’t I get hugs from everyone?” Trust me, I’m quite huggable. But it turns out there’s a big reason why my caretakers keep telling people to step back and scrub up.
The Visitor Conundrum
I’m a sociable bird—any chance to flex my feathers, I’m in. But apparently, flocks like mine are susceptible to all sorts of icky germs that visitors might bring with them from other farms, the feed store, or even their own backyards. Diseases and pests can hitchhike on people’s boots, clothes, hands… basically anywhere. And let me tell you, these uninvited “guests” can make a coop feel less like a peaceful fortress and more like a battleground.
Biosecurity 101 (A.K.A. “Why I Don’t Get a Hug”)
My caretaker calls it biosecurity, which is a fancy way of saying “keeping germs out.” Here are the basics they enforce whenever a visitor arrives:
Hand Washing
Before anyone even thinks about stepping into our domain, they get a good soap-and-water scrub. Hand sanitizer might be quicker, but a full wash gets rid of more bacteria and viruses. Turns out, squeaky-clean hands make for happy hens.
Protective Footwear (or Footbaths)
I used to think the caretaker was just making a fashion statement with all those plastic boot covers and foot dips. Nope! The idea is to prevent visitors from tracking in chicken diseases on their shoes. So, if you come strolling in with muck from your own coop or a public place, guess who’s at risk? Yours truly—and the entire flock.
Clean Clothes
If someone has been around other birds or livestock, my caretaker will suggest changing clothes before coming in. That might feel like an inconvenience, but hey, we’re worth it.
Limit Physical Contact
And here’s the heartbreak: no big group hugs. Believe me, I would love to show off my fluff and get some attention, but the risk of spreading germs is too high. So, for now, a friendly wave from a few feet away will have to do.
Why It Matters
You might think, “Oh, just one little friendly pat on the back can’t hurt.” But disease outbreaks can happen swiftly—things like avian influenza, Marek’s disease, or coccidiosis can rapidly spread through my flock if we’re not careful. Even something as simple as mites or lice can hop a ride on you and give me an itchy new roommate I never asked for.
I’m a superhero, sure—but I’m not invincible. My caretaker says prevention is the best superpower there is. Keeping a healthy distance and practicing good hygiene help ensure I can continue my heroic deeds (mostly involving saving my flock from boredom and championing free-range bug hunts).
My Hope for the Future
One day, maybe we’ll have advanced technology that zaps all germs instantly, and I’ll be able to greet visitors with a hearty flap and a friendly cluck—hugging included. Until then, my caretaker’s guidelines are in place to keep me and my flockmates healthy and disease-free.
It’s tough love, but trust me: those few precautions keep the fortress secure, and they keep me (your favorite roost reporter) alive and well. So next time you drop by, remember: wash up, gear up, and be kind to us from a distance. We’ll cluck our thanks in return, even if we can’t leap into your arms—yet!
Stay safe out there, humans, and thanks for looking out for me.
—Cluck Kent
Belgian d’Uccle Chickens: Everything You Need to Know
We are excited to be adding this breed to our flock!
Small in size but overflowing with charm, Belgian d'Uccles (pronounced "dew-clay") are beloved for their fluffy beards, feathery feet, and friendly personalities. These true bantams are not just beautiful—they are full of personality and make wonderful pets for backyard flocks!
In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about these fancy little birds, from their history and genetics to egg production, breeding, and fun facts.
History of the Belgian d'Uccle
The Belgian d’Uccle (sometimes called the Barbu d'Uccle) originated in Uccle, Belgium, in the late 1800s. A well-known poultry breeder, Michel Van Gelder, developed the breed by crossing Bearded d'Anvers bantams with other feather-footed breeds like Booted Bantams (Sablepoots). His goal was to create a beautiful, docile bantam with extravagant feathering—and he succeeded!
The breed was officially recognized in 1905 and quickly gained popularity in Europe and North America for its elegant appearance and friendly nature. Today, d'Uccles are kept as ornamental birds, exhibition chickens, and affectionate backyard pets.
Recognized Colors & Patterns
Belgian d'Uccles come in a variety of stunning colors, with the most well-known being Mille Fleur ("Thousand Flowers"). This iconic color features rich reddish-brown feathers with white-tipped black spangles, giving them a speckled, flower-like appearance.
Standard Recognized Colors:
Mille Fleur – Reddish-brown with white and black spangles (most popular) Porcelain – Similar to Mille Fleur but in a soft lavender shade Black – Solid black with a glossy sheen White – Pure white with soft feathering Blue – Smoky blue-gray plumage Self-Blue (Lavender) – Light silvery-blue with even coloring Golden Neck – Golden variation of Mille Fleur Buff Columbian – Buff-colored body with black-tipped feathers
Fun Fact: Mille Fleur d’Uccles often get more spangles as they molt, making them look even fancier as they age!
Size & Weight: How Small Are They?
Belgian d'Uccles are true bantams, meaning they have no large-fowl counterpart. Their compact size makes them easy to handle and great for smaller coops.
Weight:
- Roosters: ~26 oz (1.6 lbs)
- Hens: ~22 oz (1.4 lbs)
Size:
- Short, compact bodies with upright posture
- Fluffy beards & muffs give them a round, full face
- Booted legs & feathered feet make them extra fancy
Despite their tiny stature, they have big personalities and are often seen strutting around like they own the place!
Egg Production: What to Expect?
While Belgian d’Uccles aren’t egg-laying powerhouses, they still produce a fair number of eggs for a bantam breed.
Egg Stats: Egg Color: Creamy white to light tan Egg Size: Small Eggs Per Year: ~100-150 (2-4 per week) Broodiness: Very broody! These hens love to hatch eggs.
Broody Alert! If you want a hen that will hatch and raise chicks, d'Uccles are excellent mothers. But if you don’t want chicks, you may need to break their broodiness from time to time.
Personality & Temperament
One of the biggest reasons people love d'Uccles is their sweet, friendly nature.
Affectionate & People-Friendly – Many d'Uccles enjoy perching on shoulders or laps! Gentle with Kids – Their calm temperament makes them great for families. Curious & Chatty – They love to explore and "talk" to their humans. Not Bullies – They do best in flocks with other gentle breeds.
Fun Fact: D’Uccles have a unique “chattering” sound—a soft, trilling noise they make when they’re content!
Breeding & Genetics
If you’re interested in breeding Belgian d’Uccles, understanding their color genetics is key!
Mille Fleur & Porcelain Genetics – Porcelain is a lavender dilution of Mille Fleur, meaning two copies of the lavender gene turn Mille Fleur’s red/brown shades into soft lilac tones. Feathered Feet & Beards – Both traits are dominant, meaning chicks will inherit them easily. Sexing Chicks – Hard to tell at hatch! Males develop larger combs and wattles as they grow.
Best Breeding Tip: If you breed Mille Fleur to Mille Fleur, you'll get 100% Mille Fleur chicks. If you introduce Porcelain, you’ll start seeing lavender variations.
Raising Belgian d'Uccles: Care Tips
D’Uccles are low-maintenance birds, but their feathered feet need special attention!
Coop & Run Setup – They love perches & low roosts (not great fliers). Feathered Feet Care – Keep runs dry & clean to prevent mud buildup. Cold Weather Considerations – Beards can ice up in winter, so good coop ventilation is a must. Feed & Treats – Regular layer feed works well, but they love mealworms, fruits, & veggies as treats!
Fun Fact: D’Uccles are surprisingly fast despite their tiny size and feathered feet! They can dart across the yard like tiny fluffy rockets. 
Are Belgian d'Uccles Right for You?
Great for small flocks & backyard setups Perfect for families & kids (gentle & friendly) Beautiful feather patterns & color options Low-maintenance but need clean, dry feet Good broodies if you want a natural mother hen
Not the best choice if you want tons of eggs May get bullied by larger, more aggressive breeds Require dry ground to keep feet feathers clean
Fun Facts About Belgian d’Uccles!
They are one of the few breeds with both beards AND feathered feet. Their name is often mispronounced—it’s “dew-clay,” not “duh-uckle.” Some people call them the “Lapdogs of the Chicken World” because they love attention! Despite their size, roosters can be quite feisty and protective. They are great for showing due to their unique look and personality.
Final Thoughts: Should You Get Belgian d'Uccles?
If you want a small, friendly, and absolutely adorable chicken, the Belgian d'Uccle is a fantastic choice. They may not lay tons of eggs, but they make up for it with personality, beauty, and companionship.
Do you have Belgian d’Uccles in your flock? What’s your favorite thing about them? Let me know in the comments! 
Isolation & Quarantine: Keeping Your Flock Safe from Hidden Threats
Bringing new chickens into your flock is exciting, but it also comes with risks. Whether you’re introducing a new hen, a rescued bird, or even hatching your own chicks, isolation and quarantine are two of the most critical steps you can take to protect the health of your flock.
But aren’t isolation and quarantine the same thing? Not exactly. Let’s break it down, step by step, and talk about why you need them, how to do them properly, and how to set up the perfect quarantine area.
Isolation vs. Quarantine: What’s the Difference?
Many people use the terms isolation and quarantine interchangeably, but they serve two different purposes in flock management:
Quarantine = Prevention
Used for new birds before introducing them to the flock Purpose: To monitor for hidden illness or external parasites Length: 4 weeks (minimum), but some adjust based on source reliability Location: A separate area away from your flock
Goal: Keep potential diseases out and prevent them from spreading.
Isolation = Treatment
Used for sick or injured birds that are already part of your flock Purpose: To prevent disease spread and allow for focused care Length: Until the bird recovers or is cleared by a vet Location: A quiet, stress-free area where they can rest
Goal: Protect the flock and give the sick bird the best chance to recover.
Setting Up a Proper Quarantine Area
Choosing the Right Location
A quarantine pen should be at least 30 feet away from your main flock, if possible. Why? Some diseases are airborne or spread through contaminated clothing, feed, and water. The further apart, the better!
Ideal locations: A spare coop or tractor A garage or barn (ventilated but predator-proof) A separate fenced-off pen far from the main flock
NOT ideal locations: Right next to the main coop (disease can still spread!) Inside the same chicken run with just a fence divider Anywhere that shares feeders, waterers, or dust-bathing spots
Quarantine Pen Setup Checklist
A good quarantine setup should be safe, comfortable, and easy to clean. Here’s what you need:
Shelter
A small coop, crate, or enclosed pen that’s predator-proof Protection from wind, rain, and extreme temperatures Ventilation to prevent moisture buildup (but no drafts!)
Flooring & Bedding
Pine shavings or straw for comfort Easily cleanable flooring (avoid dirt floors—harder to disinfect) Change bedding often to monitor droppings for illness
Food & Water (NO SHARING)
Separate feeder & waterer—don’t share with the main flock Fresh, clean water at all times Balanced feed appropriate for the bird’s age and condition
Disinfection Station
A designated pair of boots and gloves for quarantine area use A foot bath (a shallow tray with disinfectant) before and after visiting Hand sanitizer or a place to wash hands nearby
Pro Tip: Always care for your main flock FIRST, then visit the quarantine pen last. Otherwise, you could carry germs from the new bird to the flock!
How Long Should Quarantine Last?
Recommended Quarantine Period: 4 Weeks Minimum
This allows time for hidden illnesses to appear. Some diseases can take 2-4 weeks to show symptoms, so don’t cut it short!
Exceptions: Shorter Quarantine (2-3 weeks) → If you got birds from a trusted, disease-tested source. Longer Quarantine (6+ weeks) → If birds come from uncertain conditions (rescues, auctions, swaps).
Remember: Even if a bird looks healthy, it could be carrying diseases that don’t show symptoms right away!
What to Watch for During Quarantine
Daily health checks are essential. Watch for these warning signs:
Respiratory Illness Symptoms
Sneezing, coughing, or wheezing Bubbly or watery eyes Nasal discharge
External Parasites (Mites, Lice, Scaly Leg Mites)
Check under the wings, vent area, and legs Flaky scales on legs (sign of scaly leg mites) Excessive scratching or feather loss
Digestive Issues
Watery or bloody droppings (could indicate coccidiosis) Swollen crop or sour smell from the beak (crop problems)
Odd Behavior
Lethargy, lack of appetite Standing fluffed up alone Weakness or uncoordinated movements
If any symptoms appear, extend quarantine and seek treatment. A sick bird should never be introduced to the flock!
Introducing the Quarantined Bird to the Flock
If the bird stays healthy for the full quarantine period, it’s time for slow introductions.
Start with "See But No Touch" – Place the new bird in a separate pen inside or near the main run for a few days so they get used to each other.
Supervised First Interactions – Expect some pecking (normal pecking order behavior). Separate if there’s serious aggression.
Integrate at Night – Some chicken keepers swear by placing the new bird on the roost at night, so they wake up together and adjust more smoothly.
Watch for Bullying – Monitor the flock for a few days to ensure the new bird is eating and not being excessively bullied.
Pro Tip: If introducing multiple new birds, they adjust better in pairs or small groups rather than one lone bird.
Final Thoughts on Quarantine & Isolation
While quarantine and isolation take effort, they can save your entire flock from illness and costly vet bills.
Always quarantine new birds, even if they look healthy. Have a separate, well-ventilated quarantine space. Watch for signs of illness, parasites, or odd behavior. Take introductions slowly to prevent stress and injuries.
We don’t live in a bubble, and no quarantine is 100% foolproof, but taking the right precautions greatly reduces risk. A little patience now = a healthier flock later!
Read Cluck Kent's experience with a Mystery Guest for a fun perspective on quarantine.
Have you ever had to quarantine a bird? What worked (or didn’t)? Share your experience in the comments!
Cluck Kent’s Coop Chronicles: The Mystery Guest!
By Cluck Kent, Flock Safety Reporter
Listen up, flock watchers. We had a situation this week. A new chick showed up—but instead of joining us right away, she got put in a separate pen. Naturally, I had questions. Who was she? Why was she here? And more importantly—why was she locked up like a criminal?
Turns out, this wasn’t some kind of chicken prison—it was quarantine. And as much as I love a good coop conspiracy theory, I have to admit… it’s actually a pretty smart idea.
Let’s break it down.
What Is Quarantine, and Why Should You Care?
Quarantine is when a new bird gets kept in a separate area before joining the flock. Why? Because sometimes, outsiders bring trouble.
New birds can carry hidden illnesses, mites, or other nasty surprises that don’t always show up right away. If you just toss them in with the flock, you might as well be handing out free disease samples like a grocery store on a Saturday.
Think of it like this: Would you let a complete stranger move into your house, sleep in your bed, and eat your snacks without making sure they’re not sick? Exactly.
How to Set Up a Quarantine Pen
Quarantine isn’t just about keeping the new bird in a time-out. It needs to be done right to actually work. Here’s what you need:
A Separate Space – A small coop, crate, or pen that’s at least 30 feet away from the main flock. (Germs can travel!) Fresh Food & Water – No sharing with the main flock! The new bird gets its own dishes to prevent cross-contamination. Time (4 Weeks Minimum) – Yes, I know. It feels like forever. But some illnesses take weeks to show up, so be patient. Daily Health Checks – Look for sneezing, runny noses, mites, diarrhea, or weird behavior. If something seems off, better to catch it early!
Bonus Tip: Take care of your main flock FIRST before handling the quarantined bird, and wash up between visits. Otherwise, you’re just spreading germs yourself. (Congrats, you’re now the disease delivery service.)
When Is It Safe to Introduce the New Bird?
If the new chick makes it through quarantine with no signs of illness, she’s good to go! But don’t just toss her into the flock like a surprise party. Chickens don’t do "new friend energy" well.
Slow Introductions – Let the flock see but not touch her for a few days. Supervised Meet-and-Greets – Expect some pecking (it’s a chicken thing), but watch for serious bullying. Integration at Night – Sometimes, slipping a new bird onto the roost at bedtime helps smooth things over. (Sneaky, but effective!) NOTE: We don't use the night method but many have reported success with this. We prefer to extend the meet-and-greet periods as everyone starts to adjust to each other.
Important Notes on Quarantine
Different people recommend different quarantine periods. Four weeks is the general rule of thumb, but if your chickens come from a reliable source, you might be able to shorten it.
Some diseases can be transmitted from hen to egg, so even if you’re hatching your own chicks, getting eggs from a trusted, disease-free source is just as important!
We don’t live in a bubble. No matter how careful you are, you can’t eliminate all risks—but taking proper precautions will greatly reduce the chance of introducing illness to your flock.
Final Thoughts from Cluck Kent
Quarantine might feel overly cautious, but trust me—it’s way easier than dealing with a full-flock illness.
A little patience now = a healthier flock later.
Ever had a quarantine success (or disaster)? Let me know in the comments! And don’t miss this week’s video, where I investigate the mystery guest in the quarantine pen! 
Talking Before Hatching: How Chicks Communicate Inside the Egg
It might surprise you to learn that baby chicks start communicating before they even hatch! Around day 19 of incubation, chicks begin making soft peeping sounds from inside the egg—but why? And how do they do it? Let’s take a closer look at this incredible form of pre-hatch communication and why it plays a vital role in a chick’s survival.
When Do Chicks Start Peeping Inside the Egg?
Around day 19 of incubation, just before hatching, a chick starts transitioning from relying on the egg’s internal oxygen supply to breathing external air. This happens when the chick breaks into the air cell inside the egg, a process called internal pipping. Once it reaches this pocket of air, the chick can start making noise!
This peeping isn’t just random—it has a specific purpose that helps the entire clutch hatch successfully.
Why Do Chicks Peep Before Hatching?
Chicks peep inside the egg for three main reasons:
Synchronizing Hatching with Siblings
- If a clutch of eggs was incubated together, the chicks begin vocalizing to each other to coordinate hatching.
- The stronger peeps from more developed chicks stimulate weaker ones to finish absorbing their yolk and get ready to hatch.
- This synchronization helps more chicks hatch around the same time, reducing the risk of stragglers being left behind.
Communicating with Their Mother
- If incubated by a broody hen, chicks will begin peeping to let her know they are alive and getting ready to hatch.
- A mother hen responds with soft clucks, reassuring the chicks and encouraging them to hatch when they are ready.
Signaling Distress or Readiness
- Chicks inside the egg can increase peeping if they are struggling or need a longer time to hatch.
- A weak or irregular peeping pattern may indicate the chick is having trouble, which can alert a broody hen or an attentive incubator caretaker.
How Can You Hear Chicks Peeping Inside the Egg?
If you’re incubating eggs, you may be able to hear the first faint peeps around day 19 or 20 by:
Holding the egg close to your ear in a quiet room.
Listening carefully near the incubator—sometimes multiple chicks will peep together! Observing a broody hen—if she suddenly starts softly clucking to her eggs, she may be responding to pre-hatch peeping.
What Happens Next? (From Peeping to Hatching!)
After internal pipping and peeping, the chick rests for several hours before beginning the next stage:
Day 20-21: External Pipping – The chick breaks through the shell with its egg tooth, creating a small hole. More Peeping & Resting – The chick continues vocalizing, building strength before the final push. Zipping & Hatching! – Using its legs and neck, the chick rotates inside the shell to break it open completely.
Final Thoughts: A Fascinating First Conversation
The fact that chicks communicate before they even hatch is an incredible survival instinct that ensures better hatch rates, stronger chicks, and better bonding with their mother. So next time you’re incubating eggs or have a broody hen sitting on a clutch, take a quiet moment around day 19–20—you just might hear the first tiny voices of your future flock! 
The Dirty Boot Disaster by Cluck Kent
By Cluck Kent, Flock Safety Reporter
Listen up, fellow cluckers—today, I’m exposing a high-risk security breach that could bring disaster to the coop. It wasn’t an aerial attack by hawks. It wasn’t a rogue raccoon raid. Nope—it was something much sneakier.
It was… a poop-covered intruder.
One morning, I noticed something alarming—muddy, gunk-covered footprints trailing right through the coop. My human had just waltzed in straight from the backyard, tracking in who-knows-what.
I knew I had to investigate.
Was this a one-time offense? Or… had they been bringing in outside filth every day?! 
I tailed them on their next mission—off to the feed store, the compost pile, even other chicken coops (oh, the betrayal!). Then, I watched in horror as they walked right back inside our run without a second thought.
Germs. Bacteria. Viruses. Right into our home.
What’s the Big Deal?
You might think, “It’s just a little dirt, Cluck Kent! Don’t be dramatic.”
Oh really? Let me spell it out for you. That “dirt” could be carrying:
Avian flu – Deadly. Spreads like wildfire. No cure. Marek’s disease – A silent, devastating virus. Coccidiosis – Makes young chicks weak and sick. Random gross bacteria – Because who wants mystery germs in their food?!
That’s right. Your shoes could be a disease superhighway.
Introducing: The Magic Boot Zone (AKA Coop-Only Shoes)
After my investigation, I demanded action. And my human finally got the memo:
No more tracking in outside gunk!
Here’s the new rule:
COOP SHOES ONLY!
That means: One pair of shoes dedicated to the coop—they never leave. No stepping inside the run in dirty, contaminated boots. No “quick trips” in outside shoes (nice try, human).
What If You “Forget” the Rule? (I’m Watching You 
)
Fine. Let’s say you accidentally step into the coop in your regular shoes. What now?
Foot Bath Station: A shallow container with a disinfecting solution to clean off germs before entering. Disposable Shoe Covers: If you must enter in outside shoes, cover them first! Disinfectant Spray: At least clean your shoes before stepping in—basic hygiene, people!
Final Thoughts from Cluck Kent
I may be a fearless flock defender, but even I can’t fight off invisible invaders like bacteria and viruses. That’s your job, humans.
So, do the right thing. Wear coop-only shoes. Set up a foot bath. Keep the flock safe.
And if I catch you stepping in here with dirty boots again? Let’s just say… there will be squawking. 
Cluck Kent vs. The Mysterious Midnight Munchies: A Biosecurity Blunder!
By Cluck Kent, Flock Safety Reporter
Listen up, flockmates—today, I’m exposing a biosecurity breach so reckless it could have brought chaos to the coop.
It all started with a midnight snack.
There I was, wide awake while everyone else snoozed—except for one sneaky little mouse darting around the run. My superhero senses tingled. Something was up.
That’s when I spotted it—a forgotten pile of feed just outside the coop. Jackpot!
Naturally, I did what any brave, slightly peckish rooster would do—I swooped in for a bite.
But before I could claim my prize, The Voice rang out.
“Cluck Kent! WHAT are you eating?!”
I froze, beak mid-bite. Mom had caught me red-feathered.
What’s the Big Deal? It’s Just a Snack… Right?
Wrong. Turns out, that innocent-looking grain pile was a biosecurity nightmare waiting to happen.
Here’s why eating old or exposed feed is a one-way ticket to Trouble Town:
Mold & Toxins – Old, damp feed = a breeding ground for deadly mycotoxins. Rodent Poop Surprise – Mice love feed piles. And you know what else they leave behind? Diseases. Wild Bird Buffet – If sparrows or pigeons snacked there first, they could’ve left bird flu, parasites, or bacteria behind. Bugs & Worm Eggs – Ever heard of gape worm? No? Well, you don’t want to. Trust me.
I wasn’t sneaking a midnight snack—I was about to poison the whole flock.
How to Keep Your Coop Rodent & Disease-Free
After my near-miss with mystery germs, Mom stepped up her game. Here’s how she made sure this never happens again:
No More Overnight Snacks – Feeders get put away at night to avoid unwanted dinner guests. Daily Coop Cleanup – Any spilled feed is cleaned up daily so it doesn’t attract pests. Rodent-Proof Storage – Feed is now locked up in metal bins—mice can chew through plastic, but not steel. Wild Bird Control – Extra netting keeps sparrows, pigeons, and their nasty germs out.
Final Thoughts from Cluck Kent
Look, I may be a superhero, but even I can’t fight off invisible villains like bacteria, mold, and parasites. That’s your job, humans.
So, store feed properly, clean up spills, and keep wild critters OUT.
And if you see me sneaking around outside the coop again? I’m definitely not looking for snacks… probably.
How to Choose the Best Tomatoes to Grow
Not all tomatoes are created equal! The best variety for you depends on your climate, space, and how you plan to use them. Here’s how to pick the perfect tomato for your garden! 
Determinate vs. Indeterminate – Know Your Growth Type
Determinate (Bush) – Grows to a set size (3-4 feet), produces all fruit at once, then stops. Great for small spaces & canning! Indeterminate (Vining) – Keeps growing and producing until frost, needs staking or cages. Best for fresh eating & long harvests!
Tip: If you want steady tomatoes all season, go for indeterminate! If you want a big harvest at once, choose determinate.
Match Your Tomato to Your Climate
Short, Cool Summers? → Early Varieties like Stupice, Glacier, or Siberian (ripen in 50-60 days). Hot, Humid Areas? → Heat-Tolerant Varieties like Solar Fire, Heatmaster, or Florida 91. Short Growing Season? → Cherry or Grape Tomatoes ripen fast and produce heavily!
Choose by Purpose – What Will You Use Them For?
For Fresh Eating: Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Sungold, Black Krim
For Sauces & Canning: Roma, San Marzano, Amish Paste
For Slicing & Sandwiches: Beefsteak, Mortgage Lifter, Big Boy For Small Spaces & Containers: Tiny Tim, Patio Princess, Tumbling Tom
Disease Resistance – Protect Your Harvest
Look for disease-resistant varieties if blight, wilt, or pests are a problem. Labels like V, F, N, T indicate resistance to: V – Verticillium Wilt F – Fusarium Wilt N – Nematodes T – Tobacco Mosaic Virus
Tip: Celebrity and Big Beef are excellent disease-resistant varieties!
Best All-Around Tomato Picks
Best for Beginners: Roma, Sungold, Early Girl Best for Big Yields: Juliet, San Marzano, Beefsteak Best Heirloom Flavor: Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, Black Krim Best for Containers: Tiny Tim, Patio Princess, Tumbling Tom
Final Tip
Pick a mix of early, mid, and late-season tomatoes to keep the harvest going strong!
What’s your favorite tomato variety to grow? Let me know! 
Keep the Germs Out! Protect Your Flock Like a Pro!
By Cluck Kent, Flock Safety Reporter
Listen up, feathered friends and farmhands! Sickness sneaks into the coop faster than a hungry hen on a spilled feed bucket—and trust me, you don’t want to deal with a flock full of sniffly, sluggish birds. That’s why I’m here to talk about something every chicken keeper needs: a rock-solid plan to KEEP THE GERMS OUT!
Lucky for you, there’s a poultry health expert who can help stop disease in its tracks—before your hens start looking like they’ve had a rough molting season. Whether you’re running a backyard flock or a full-blown farm, professional germ defense is a game-changer!
Why Should You Care About Keeping Germs Out?
Let’s break it down. Would you eat off a dirty plate? Nope. Would you let a sick stranger sneeze all over your breakfast? Didn’t think so.
Well, your chickens feel the same way! Germs come from: Dirty boots tracking in nasties from other flocks Wild birds dropping “unwanted gifts” in the run New birds carrying hidden illnesses Shared waterers that turn into bacteria soup
One sick hen can wipe out an entire flock if you’re not careful—and I, for one, don’t want to be stuck reporting another preventable poultry tragedy.
How the Pros Can Help You Lock the Germs Out!
The best defense is a strong plan—and that’s exactly what this germ-fighting poultry pro can help you build!
Flock Health Consultations – Get a custom game plan for keeping your birds in top shape. Step-by-Step Coop Safety Checks – Find out where germs are sneaking in. New Bird Quarantine Plans – Keep newcomers from bringing trouble into the flock. Easy-to-Follow Clean Coop Systems – Because no one wants to spend all day scrubbing. Training & Support – Learn the best ways to handle birds, gear, and visitors to keep sickness OUT.
It’s simple: fewer germs = healthier chickens = more eggs. Sounds like a win to me!
Don't Wait Until It’s Too Late—Protect Your Flock NOW!
I’ve seen it too many times—a keeper waits until their flock is sick, and by then, it’s a full-blown disaster. Don’t let that be you!
Get expert help today! Reach out for a consultation and set up an easy, effective plan to keep your flock thriving.
The Biosecure Backyard
(Get a free eBook for visiting our page)
Tell them Cluck Kent sent you—because I don’t take safety lightly, and neither should you!
Until next time, stay sharp, stay safe, and KEEP THE GERMS OUT! 
What the Cluck Is Biosecurity
By Cluck Kent, Flock Safety Reporter
Listen up, fellow feathered friends and human caretakers! Cluck Kent here, your beaked beacon of truth, and today we’re talking about something that ruffles my feathers more than a surprise rainstorm—biosecurity.
Now, before you start flapping in confusion, let me break it down in chicken terms. Biosecurity is just a fancy way of saying: "Keep the germs out so we don’t get sick!" It’s like washing your hands before dinner, but for chickens. And trust me, you don’t want to be sharing a meal with a hen that’s sneezing all over the feed. Yuck.
What IS Biosecurity, Anyway?
Biosecurity is a set of simple steps to keep diseases out of the flock and stop them from spreading if they do sneak in. Think of it like this:
Keeping a clean coop = Not letting germs move in rent-free.
Limiting visitors = No uninvited guests bringing in trouble (I’m looking at you, wild birds and rodents!).
Washing up = Making sure those two-legged giants (humans) don’t track in germs from other flocks.
In short, biosecurity keeps us chickens happy, healthy, and laying those golden (okay, technically just brown or white) eggs!
Why Should You Care?
Well, let me tell you a little horror story. Once upon a time, a farmer didn’t take biosecurity seriously. She let her neighbor visit after handling her own sick chickens, and before you could say “What the cluck?!”—the whole flock caught a nasty bug. Egg production dropped, feathers fluffed in distress, and even worse… some birds didn’t make it.
This could’ve been avoided with just a few simple biosecurity steps. And trust me, when you’re a rooster in charge of the flock, you don’t want to see your ladies looking droopy instead of dazzling.
Biosecurity Basics: What YOU Can Do
Good news! Biosecurity isn’t complicated—it’s just a few smart habits. Here’s how you can keep your flock (and me) safe:
Keep It Clean!
Scrub waterers, feeders, and perches regularly—just like humans should clean their dinner plates (seriously, do you all just leave dirty dishes lying around?).
Limit Visitors
Don’t let just anyone waltz into the coop—especially if they’ve been around other birds. If your friend wants to visit, make them change shoes or wear boot covers. No germs allowed!
Quarantine New Birds
Bringing home a new hen? Keep her separate for at least 30 days to make sure she isn’t hiding any unwanted surprises (like mites or respiratory infections).
Shoes Matter
Have a coop-only pair of boots so you’re not tracking in germs from the great outdoors (or that wild turkey who thinks he owns the place).
Block Wild Birds & Rodents
They might look cute, but wild birds and rodents carry diseases like avian influenza and salmonella. Keep feed covered and secure entry points to keep them out!
What Happens If Biosecurity Fails?
If you don’t follow these simple steps, you could face: Sick chickens – Nobody wants a flock full of sneezing, sluggish hens. Lost eggs – Sick birds don’t lay well, and that means fewer omelets for you! Serious diseases – Some poultry diseases (like Newcastle or avian flu) spread fast and can wipe out an entire flock.
Bottom line? A little prevention goes a long way.
Cluck Kent’s Final Report: Be a Biosecurity Superhero!
Look, I may not wear a cape, but I do know one thing: biosecurity is the key to keeping us chickens healthy and egg-cellent! It’s easy, it’s smart, and it keeps everyone happy—especially me, because I do not want to deal with sick hens whining about their runny noses.
So be a biosecurity superhero and protect your flock. Wash those hands, clean those coops, and keep those germs out!
Until next time, this is Cluck Kent, signing off—because a healthy flock is a happy flock!
